BMW Service and Repair Redwood City - BMW M3 Buying Guide - Bosch European Redwood City 650-368-3000

 

If ever a car defined all that is right about BMW's M Division, it's the M3. The E46 M3 was the third generation of this compact, high performance model and it struck M gold with its balance of power, performance and usability.

Introduced in October 2000, the E46 developed the M3 theme with an improved and updated version of the 3.2-litre straight-six engine. It developed 343hp, giving it one of the highest specific outputs of any naturally aspirated engines in the world at its launch. North American-bound M3s were saddled with a detuned engine producing 333hp, but we'll concentrate on Euro-spec models in this guide.

A six-speed manual gearbox was the only option for the E46 M3, but BMW offered it with SMG (sequential manual gearbox) to do away with the clutch pedal, but not the clutch. BMW also introduced a Convertible version of the M3 in February 2001.

The ultimate M3 arrived in May 2003 with the CSL (Coupe Sport Leichtbau). It shed 110kg over the standard M3 Coupe by ditching luxuries such as electrically adjusted leather seats, air conditioning, satellite navigation and the stereo system. As its suggests, the CSL was a more hardcore machine with unique 19-inch Y-spoke alloy wheels fitted with near slick Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires that made the car a handful in the wet. Because of this, BMW asked CSL buyers to sign a disclaimer saying they understood the nature of the tires.

With an extra 17hp, plus a carbon fiber roof, front spoiler and rear diffuser, the CSL notched up 0-62mph in a claimed 4.5 seconds compared to the standard M3 Coupe's 5.1 seconds. The reality is the CSL managed this sprint in 4.5 seconds in contemporary magazine road tests and the standard car was good for 0-62mph in 4.8 seconds in the hands of an aggressive road tester. Both the manual and SMG transmissions delivered the same acceleration figures, while top speed was pegged to 155mph, though again reality showed 160mph was more usual.

A last hurrah M3 CS in 2005 took the wheels, brakes, steering wheel, quicker steering rack and uprated traction control of the CSL and married them to an otherwise standard M3 Coupe. The big difference with the CS was it could be bought with the standard six-speed manual gearbox rather than the SMG 'box that was the only choice in the CSL.

Production of the E46 M3 came to a halt in August 2006 when the last of the Convertibles rolled down the Regensburg line. 

Powertrain

 

The 3,246cc S54 six-cylinder engine used in the E46 M3 has an iron block with 87.0x91.0mm bore and stroke. Compared the previous E36 M3, the E46 model gained new camshafts and an increased compression ratio, rising to 11.5:1 from 11.3:1. There was also a new Siemens-developed engine management control system, fly-by-wire throttle and two-mode M Dynamic Driving Control that offered Normal and Sport modes to alter throttle response.

BMW also introduced new finger-type rocker arms to reduce friction in the engine, as well as lowering reciprocating mass in an engine that could rev to 8,000rpm. A one-piece aluminum cylinder head contained the 24 valves, while a new scavenging oil pump kept them lubricated during hard cornering.
The result of all this work was 343hp in a normally aspirated engine, which was the most powerful engine per litre BMW had then produced other than the McLaren F1's 6.1-litre V12 motor. Coupled to this is a six-speed Getrag manual gearbox that could be bought in either standard form with a clutch pedal or SMG (sequential manual gearbox) that did away with the clutch pedal in favor of paddle shifters and a gear lever that could be nudged forwards and back to change gear. In the SMG II 'box, the clutch is actuated by BMW's electrohydraulic Drivelogic system that offers 11 different modes and a Launch Control.

Both transmissions have identical ratios and the same internal components, and both send power to the back wheels through an M Variable Differential Lock limited-slip differential. To further help the M3 control its power, BMW fitted Dynamic Stability Control as standard.

The M3 CSL only came with the SMG gearbox, which is the same as the standard M3's. However, the DSC was modified to offer an M Track Mode that allowed the rear of the car to oversteer more before intervening. To increase the CSL's power by 17hp to 360hp, BMW added a carbon fiber air box that lets in more air and gives a louder intake noise. The VANOS variable valve timing was altered and a lightweight exhaust manifold with thinner, straighter tubing was also added.

Most CSLs have led a pampered life in the hands of dedicated enthusiasts as it's not as easy a car to live with as a standard M3. However, all of the same checks for the M3 Coupe apply to the CSL, so first port of call should be the service record to make sure the original running-in service was carried out at 1,200 miles, This included an oil change that has proved essential to the M3's long-term health.
The SMG's hydraulic fluid pump can fail, leading to the gearbox dropping into neutral. Replacing the pump is costly, but this can also be misdiagnosed when the relay is failing and a new relay is easy and cheap to replace.

Clutches wear more quickly in SMG-equipped M3s, particularly those that spend more time in town. Judder from the clutch as drive is taken up in the lower gears is a clear sign it will need replacing. However, BMW also offers a software update that should have been added to any SMG M3 to reduce clutch judder.

As for the engine itself, it's a tough unit. Some early cars suffered crank bearing failures, but all of these affected cars should have been repaired under warranty or had the engine replaced by BMW. The fault seemed to rear its head at around 30,000 miles, so any very low mileage early M3 should have its history file carefully inspected.

The double VANOS variable valve timing is more robust on the E46 M3 than it was on the E36 version. However, the VANOS bolts can loosen at around 70,000 miles. If they break, it can ruin the engine, but stronger replacement bolts are available from BMW.

A noisy rear differential is nothing to worry about if it makes a little grumble when turning tightly at low speeds. A change with the correct Castrol oil will help, but this is a common characteristic of the M3.

Alternators and coil packs have been known to fail, but both are straightforward to fix and the competent home mechanic can tackle either problem to keep costs moderate.

Rolling Chassis

The M3 uses a steel monocoque shell with MacPherson strut front suspension and a multi-link set up at the rear. For the M3, BMW widened the front and rear tracks compared to the standard 3 Series Coupe and fitted unique 'bat wing' forged aluminum lower control arms with bearings and bushes developed solely for the M3.

For the M3 Convertible, a stronger rear sub frame was added to carry the larger half-shafts and uprights to cope with the extra power. BMW also used thicker anti-roll bars, with a 26mm item at the front and 21.5mm at the rear. In February 2002, the Coupe and Convertible gained an M Racing strut brace for the front suspension.

A set of 18-inch alloy wheels were standard for the M3, with the option of 19-inch alloys. Michelin Pilot Sport tires were original fitment in 225/45 ZR18 front and 255/40 ZR18 rear, with the 19-inch wheels using 225/40 ZR19 and 255/35 ZR19 tires front and rear respectively. The CSL has unique 19-inch alloy wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires in 235/35 ZR19 front and 265/30 ZR19 rear sizes.

Behind the wheels reside 325mm ventilated discs front and rear with ABS as standard. The power assisted rack and pinion steering of the standard M3 needs 3.2 turns from lock to lock, while the CSL quickened this with a 14.5:1 ratio rack for 3.0 turns between the stops.

The CSL also benefits from firmer suspension with front springs that are shorter by one coil and different rate shock absorbers. Thicker front and rear anti-roll bars, 30.8mm and 22.5mm respectively, are supplemented by aluminum rear suspension links and firmer bushes all round. Larger 345mm front brake discs are used for the CSL.

Upgrading the brakes for track use is worthwhile and Pagid Yellow compound pads are a good first step. AP Racing's 335mm front discs with six-pot calipers are the next logical step for greater stopping power.

As with all E46 3 Series, the M3's front ball joints wear and spoil the feel of the car, but they are a straightforward repair. The front wishbone bushes and rear trailing arm bushes are also likely to need replacing on any car with 60,000 miles or more on the clock. Rear coil springs and dampers will most likely need replacing by 80,000 miles.

Aftermarket suspension kits are widely available for the M3, but cheap ones can ruin the ride and handling balance. Eibach or H&R springs are worthwhile, while AC Schnitzer kit is better still but expensive.

Last point to look for is a cracked boot floor. BMW will replace it for free on cars less than 10 years old, but it will be very expensive to fix on cars where no goodwill is offered.

Body

The M3 is subtly different to the standard 3 Series Coupe with flared wheel arches to cover the wider front and rear tracks, chromed side vents, an aluminum bonnet with power bulge and wider front 'kidney' grilles. There's also a new front bumper with splitter, rear bumper with diffuser and quad tailpipes, and unique M3 door mirrors.

The CSL took its body a stage further with a roof, front splitter and rear diffuser made of carbon fiber. Its front bumper is a different shape to incorporate a single air intake on the left-hand side, while the composite material boot is shaped to include a rear spoiler. With thinner rear glass, the CSL saved 110kg over the standard M3 Coupe with SMG gearbox. A small price to pay for this is the CSL's front bumper is more susceptible to damage from speed bumps and cracks can appear.

In September 2001, BMW upgraded the xenon headlights to bi-xenon lights. The self-leveling can fail for these lights, though this is usually down to a simple relay rather than the entire light unit needing replacing. For April 2003, LED rear lights became standard across the M3 range.

M3s are more resistant to rust than standard 3 Series models, due largely to the front wheel arches not having a rubber seal on the arch liner that attracts mud and damp. However, the rear arches have been known to corrode where they meet the back bumper, so inspect carefully. While doing this, also look around the rear window edges for any signs of corrosion.

Door locks need a slug of spray grease every six months to avoid sticking. It's also important for the Convertible's folding roof linkages to get a regular dab of grease at every service to keep it working smoothly. The fabric hood is very well made and should work quickly and fit snugly. Any drop-top roof that doesn't work and fit properly suggests badly repaired accident damage.

Interior

The M Design seats of the standard M3 are trimmed in Nappa leather that needs regular cleaning and leather food to keep in tip-top conditioning. Cracked leather is not uncommon, while the driver's side right-hand bolster also becomes crushed over time. The steering wheel is unique to the M3, as are the instrument binnacle's grey-faced dials that include a rev counter with orange segments that go out as the engine warms through to indicate the safe rev limit. The speedo reads up to 180mph.

 

A lot of M3s will have a television and satellite navigation fitted. The sat-nav will need an up to date CD to give accurate information, while the television may struggle with today's digital signals. While looking at the center console, make sure the air conditioning works properly. You should also press every button to be certain all of the electrics function properly, including the illuminated M gear knob for the manual gearbox.

The CSL's cabin varies quite a lot from the standard M3s as it ditches the electrically adjusted front seats in favor of deeper bucket-style sports seats trimmed in Anthracite Reflex cloth and Amaretta synthetic suede. These seats do without the side airbags of standard M3 models. In the back, two individual seats are trimmed in the same cloth as the front pews, while the steering wheel is finished in Alcantara and has the button for the M Track mode where you'd normally expect the stereo controls.

Going further, the CSL also has lightweight door trims and a center console made of lightweight composite material. BMW did away with satellite navigation, any stereo or CD, air conditioning, sunroof or electric seat adjustment for the CSL to save weight. Buyers could order air conditioning as an option.

On all M3s, the interior door handles have been known to come loose and fall to pieces, though this should have been sorted under warranty by now. The rear view mirrors light reactive fluid can leak inside the mirror which will be obvious at a glance. It's expensive to replace from BMW, so worth checking. Also make sure the door seals fit and sit snugly to keep out wind and noise.

source: http://www.pistonheads.com/doc.asp?c=52&i=25931
 by Alisdair Suttie

Jaguar Service and Repair Redwood City - Jaguar XJ220 History - Bosch European Redwood City 650-368-3000

The Jaguar XJ220 will forever be the car that wasn't. Whereas really, it should be celebrated for being the car that was, against all odds.

 

Professor Jim Randle, former Jaguar director of engineering, takes up the story, which starts in the early 1980s. “Sir John Egan had been tasked with demonstrating Jaguar was still in business and could independently survive.” A work level “bordering on the unbelievable” ensued for every director, selling the Jaguar brand and “inventing a believable product plan – which we didn’t have… but so good was our deception, BL believed it!” After six frenetic months Jaguar was privatized in August 1984. “We were then told to make it work.”

In Randle’s words, this meant “selling the sizzle became more important than selling the sausage”. Jaguar needed to get its pride back. More was needed than just new models like the XJ40. In stepped Tom Walkinshaw, who convinced the board he could win in ETCC. With the XJ-S, in 1983, he did. The workforce loved it. Later, he would do the same with Le Mans. But Randle had another idea: produce a road-going supercar designed to race in the fledgling Group B championship being mooted by the FIA. “I spent Christmas 1987 thinking about what we could do, and ended up with a CAD model, which I still have.” CAD for Randle is, it should be noted, cardboard-aided design…

“Intentionally complex”
This was given to the styling department. “Put a frock on it, make it echo the XJ13.” Randle also deployed an unwritten understanding with suppliers such as FFD, QCR, Triplex. If they did work, and it worked, they’d get the work. He wrote an internal memo, requesting volunteers to work, in their own time, on a supercar project. 12 people signed up, forming ‘the Saturday club’ and giving Randle “the opportunity to do the job without any money.”

And so, the gestation of a 220mph car started. “XJ220 was fitting. It was 40 years after the XK120 did 120mph. That was a Bill Heynes car, (development legend) Norman Dewis told us ‘honor Bill’.” 

“It was intentionally complex: four-wheel drive, rear-wheel steer, variable aerodynamics so it could ‘drive-to-race’, though being a down force car it would have to lower by a few inches from road guise. The aero was to produce 1,360kg (yes, you read right) of down force at 220mph – although, what tires could manage such forces? They remained a problem throughout the entire program.

“The V12 engine was originally designed by Walter Hassan in the 1960s. It was developed with Cosworth and raced in 1986, and a road car study discovered it was powerful, but uneconomical. It wasn’t carried on, but we were able to steal one of the five development engines for our concept.” Cue one 700hp 6.2-litre V12 engine, complete with driveshaft running through the open vee.

About that V12…
Just one of many clever innovations. “We designed the rear-steer system not for cornering but to put yaw damping in the system. Suspension was relatively conventional but, as it was height-adjustable, we accounted for caster change constraints.” The bodywork was 4000-series aluminum, with an FIA roll cage buried within the structure. “It had astounding crash performance.”

Keith Helfet did the styling, “knowing I was going to lose, how can to better the old cars?” But he went ahead, using the XJ13 as inspiration. Within the constraints of a design “that couldn’t be fully oval as we had the constraints of the Group B aero stuff”, he aimed to replicate Malcolm Sayer’s design language of form being all, getting acceleration into the design, “making it look fast standing still.”

It was an aero-led shape. “I didn’t want flame surfacing and feature lines, but shapes that made sense.” Jaguar couldn’t afford a full-scale model, so everything was done in quarter-scale. It was tested and honed in MIRA’s new wind tunnel, and this optimized model became the final car. “It was scary – the thing looked the size of a house. You can’t scale the sense of scale! I actually felt guilty, too: we’d made the aluminum body panel beaters’ job so hard. Luckily, they disagreed and said it was the highlight of their careers – they’d never been stretched so much.”

More late nights
And so, 10 months after the project started, the 12-strong team wheeled the car direct from its press material photo shoot into the 1988 NEC Motor Show at 3am on opening day. “One of the team found six bottles of Champagne. At 6am, we all went home worse for wear.” The crowds flocked in, your 10-year-old writer was squashed by them, Ferrari became increasingly desperate to draw attention to the F40 parked next door (“They moved the car, then got an attractive lady, who then started taking her clothes off – still nobody turned around.”), an extra 90,000 people visited the Birmingham show just to see it – the XJ220 sizzled alright.

So that was the concept. It was a bold Jaguar board that agreed to green-light it, targeting a 1992 launch just three years hence. And, with no racing intent in mind, it was a focused project engineering team that led to the road car makeup which disappointed so many.

 

Engine? The Metro 6R4 V6, a shortened Rover V8 whose design had since been sold to TWR. It had racing pedigree (in the Group C cars), it was powerful, it didn’t weigh loads. But for the V12 promise, it was ideal. The Porsche 959 could get away with a six-pot turbo, so why not Jaguar? As for four-wheel drive, it was heavy, compromise-laden, unnecessary: it went. Rear-wheel steer, height adjustable suspension and active aero followed suit. All were sound engineering decisions that created a lighter, faster, more able car than would otherwise have been the case.

Cut and shut
Helfet knew the car had to shrink. The V6 allowed it to. “This was before the days of Photoshop: we ‘cut and shut’ photographic prints to get the proportions of a smaller car. I’d have liked it shorter, but Tom [Walkinshaw] wouldn’t have it.” Bigger openings for the turbo intercoolers were created, but the XJ13-inspired glass engine cover was retained, as was pretty much everything else from the show car. Which in itself is remarkable. Few realise they are so very different. Few realize the show car was never designed to make production. Underappreciated is the fact it did at all.

Production ceased in 1994, 281 cars into the planned 350 total, with a fizzle. Yes, history is unkind to the XJ220. It was, at 213mph, the fastest car in the world, despite being developed on a shoestring at breakneck speed. The recession, the no-V12 fallout, the court cases from aggrieved owners, all shadow what is a pretty stunning accomplishment: an automotive minnow turning a race-inspired piece of conceptual engineering brilliance into a road going reality that beat every other supercar on the planet. 20 years on, it’s time we celebrated it.

source: http://www.pistonheads.com/doc.asp?c=52&i=26143

by Richard Aucock

 

http://www.boscheuropean.com

Jaguar Service and Repair Redwood City - Jaguar History and Buying Advice - Bosch European Redwood City 650-368-3000

Jaguars have always been remarkable value for money and right now the XJ-S is very cheap. It was launched as the replacement for the E-type in 1975, then killed off to make way for the XK8 and it's only now that the XJ-S is getting the recognition it deserves. This wasn't always the case. As a product of the British Leyland era, which Jaguar was part of, the XJ-S suffered with a bad reputation sometimes justifiably so. It had a reputation which was blackened with poor unreliability and build quality, something the XJ-S never truly lived down, even after it had righted all those wrongs. But if you have always fancied a Jaguar on your drive, then there's never been a better time to get one. And don't think you can't afford to keep an XJ-S. By careful buying and seeking out the right repairers, you can even keep it purring on a surprisingly small budget. The V12's fuel consumption is about 16-20mpg but this car really does shift. The six-cylinder models, made from 1983, are far more frugal, but still expect no better than 19-24mpg. Performance, while not up to the V12's impressive proportions, is still quick, especially in later 4.0-litre guise. Another advantage of the six-cylinder model is a four-speed automatic gearbox instead of the three-speed version. Manual transmission was also offered but most models, especially the later ones, were automatics - and that suited the XJS's GT aspirations best. Handling and ride quality has always been exceptional, but it's no where near as much fun as my TVR to drive across country. However, few other 2+2s can provide such majestic motoring for such reasonable money.

Fully charting the XJS's history would take pages, but essentially this big cat first went on the prowl in V12 coupe guise. It was joined by a 'semi-roofed' cabriolet in 1985 and went totally roofless some three years later. A facelift in 1991, followed by further detail revamping in 1993, breathed new life into the design. Engine-wise, slightly less thirsty six-cylinder units came on stream in 1983 to broaden appeal. A 3.6-litre variant was replaced by a more powerful 4.0-litre XJS as part of the 1991 revamp. It produced around the same power output as the 3.6 because it was equipped with a catalytic converter. Output was increased to 237bhp in June 1994. The 5.3-litre V12 unit had extensive modifications to the cylinder heads in 1981 to create the 'Fireball' HE engine for improved economy, while a catalytic converter in 1990 reduced power from 299bhp to 286bhp. This then dropped again to 280bhp when a new V12 was launched in 1991, but the power slide was soon corrected when the engine became a full-blooded 308bhp 6.0-litre in May 1993. Ace Jaguar tuner TWR (Damon Hill's ex employer ) did a bespoke XJR conversion in 1991 and managed to wring 333bhp out of the unit before it was discontinued. Meanwhile, there have been plenty of interior changes. ABS became standard in 1988, Pirelli P4000 tyres, 16-inch alloy wheels and an airbag-equipped steering wheel surfaced in 1992, with touring suspension as an option. Sports suspension was fitted in May '93, and passenger airbags arrived that September. In June 1994, the XJS had its last major revamp, gaining colour-coded door mirrors, grille and headlamp bezels, yet another pattern for the alloys, redesigned seats and better stereo system. There was a special edition Le Mans V12 coupe featuring sports suspension, Wilton carpeting and more in 1990, and a highly specified Celebration 4.0 coupe and convertible, launched in 1995.

Unless you are thinking of buying a restoration project (in which case the early V12s with manual transmission are sought after), avoid anything made before 1982. Early versions suffered notorious unreliability due to disastrous build problems and could rust badly. Thankfully things steadily improved during the Eighties and the XJ-S became quite reliable. Nevertheless, a service history is a good idea and you should steer well clear of any obviously tarted-up rubbish. I would also tend to avoid cars that have had a lot of owners. When vetting an XJ-S, check for rusty floors, sills, doors, boot and wheel arches. Severe rot results in an MoT fail. Worn rear suspension bushes is another fail point. Look for leaks of coolant, transmission oil and power steering fluid. The big cat's electrics could be a nightmare too, with failing instruments, computers, windows and central locking. Mechanically, the V12 engine should be silky smooth and silent, with good oil pressure and no trails of blue smoke. Head gasket failures are common if the car has been allowed to overheat. The AJ6 is simpler to maintain, but can give head trouble (overheating) and suffer from crank rumbles, plus tappety camshafts and timing gear. Again, watch for low oil pressure and clouds of smoke under load. If all this sounds off-putting, remember you only get what you pay for and if you aren't mechanically minded a main dealer-maintained Jaguar should be fine, as a lot of the problems stem from neglect. There are excellent independent Jaguar specialists which provide big cat care for a fraction of main dealer rates. It's the same when buying one. Main dealers have the choice picks and offer two levels of Jaguar Approved protection on cars up to 15 years old, but good specialists also sell quality Jaguars. Coupes are cheaper than soft-tops by a fair amount. So If you think that you can't afford an XK8? Have the next best thing and save yourself thousands of dollars!

source: http://nwarner.worldonline.co.uk/jagbuy.htm

http://www.boscheuropean.com

Audi Service and Repair Redwood City - Audi A8 Buyer Tips - Bosch European Redwood City 650-368-3000

 

 

Looking seriously at an A8? Use this list to inspect for common items.

So you are looking at an A8 or S8 and getting excited! It's not hard to do. My car was bought off of Ebay, here's a few pictures of it before I took delivery. It looks like it is jacked up compared to how it sits with the H&R coilovers.

Find an Indpendent Mechanic to Inspect the Car
Do yourself a favor and find an indpendent mechanic to inspect your prospective car. It will cost somewhere between $100 and $200. Print out this inspection list and give it to him. This is the cheapest money you'll ever spend.

Look for somebody who specializes in German repairs, somebody who knows the Audi line is best. Have him go over everything after the inspection is complete. This inspection should take about an hour.

Administrative
Run the VIN through carfax and ask an Audi dealer for a service history printout. This will provide a history of the car and might point to issues to be concerned about. Audi dealers will do this for no charge, you will need to provide them a VIN for this service.

Check what the in-service date for the car was, this will determine when the factory warranty expires.

Ask if recalls were addressed, Audi changed the tie rod ends on some of the older A8's from aluminum to steel under campaign number 99V248000.

Paperwork
See what paperwork is included with the car.

- Operators manual
- Radio manual
- Radio security code (needed after power is removed from radio to start it up again)
- Maintenance history
- Any other paperwork

If you are buying an older A8 with 60K miles or higher, determine if the timing belt has been changed or not, if so, at what mileage. The timing belt does not require changing at 60K, but MUST be completed by 90K miles. This is an expensive service, determine the details before buying the vehicle.

Mechanical
Inspect around valve covers and heads of engine. Inspect for oil leaks. Make sure you have a flash light with you while doing this inspection. Remember, if a small amount of oil leaked out of the head past the gasket, it will pick up dirt. Do not be alarmed by this. If it's not wet or not a large amount, it's probably not a problem. One tablespoon of oil leaking can look like a cup! 

Inspect for any leakage around the power steering pump and high pressure hydraulic lines. This can be found on the bottom driver's side front of the engine. There should be no leaks or indications of any hydraulic fluid leak. Also look at the steering rack for leaking hydraulic oil.

Open the radiator overflow tank and inspect for coolant color. The coolant HAS TO BE RED. If it is green, then the wrong coolant was put in the system and will be required to be changed.

When you closed the hood, is the hood release retracted after shutting?

Put the car on a lift
Inspect for oil leakage at the final drive seal on the transmission (right above the catalytic converters). This is where the driveshaft attaches to the transmission. It is a common leak point. If it is leaking, it will be leaking gear lube, not transmission fluid. Gear lube has a particular smell, you or your mechanic will know it when you smell it. When it leaks, it drops on the left hand catalytic converter. Replacement of this seal is about $250 including labor (the seal is about $8). 

Bottom of transmission pan and catalytic converters. If the output seal on the transmission is leaking, it drips on the left hand cat. This is the cat seen closest to the photographer. The large recess on the transmission pan is the fill for the automatic transmission fluid.

Inspect the rear differential for leaking seals. This is also a common leak on the A8. If it is leaking, you will most likely see oil/grime splattering on the adjacent support pieces. To have all three seals replaced, it's about $400 including labor because the whole differential needs to come off. If it is done at an independent's shop, it will be closer to $250 with labor.

 

Rear differential. Note oil and grime splattering on adjacent support from a leaking output shaft seal.

Inspect all four drive axles for torn constant velocity (CV) joint boots. The outer front CV joint boot commonly tears on the A8. If it does tear, the grease in the joint will whip out and can be seen in the wheel well. If it does have a tear, a new one will cost about $200 with labor to replace, the axle must be removed from the car for the repair. 

 

Front axle outer CV boot. This view is from the front of the car looking back. This boot was just replaced. However, the mechanic that replaced it did not clean the grease up from when it was torn. Note how it throws grease all over the suspension components and the wheel well.

Remove wheels and inspect brakes. Check for pad wear to determine when the pads will need replacement and check rotors for condition/thickness.

Electrical and Accessories
The A8 has a few items that broke on almost all A8's including the heated steering wheel and the electric headrests. You can live without the heated steering wheel (if you must have it, you'll need to replace it). The headrests can be repaired. It's very expensive at a dealer, about $5 in parts if you do it yourself.

 

1997 US spec A8 dashboard. Switches from left to right above the radio are: driver's seat heater, front fog lights, rear fog lights, rear defroster, hazard, blank (if it had the hot weather package, this would be the rear sun shade switch position), rear head rest "down" switch, blank (if it was a 3.7 non-quattro, this would be the traction control on/off switch), passenger seat heater.

Check the following:

Do the headrests go up and down? ALWAYS check in the “down” position first, otherwise they might not go back down after you get them all the way up.

Heated steering wheel. Turn on the driver's side heated seat, ensure it's less than 70 F, and feel the steering wheel. It's very noticeable after about 1 minute, if you don't notice anything, it doesn't work. It's usually the heating element in the steering wheel that goes bad, you'll need to replace it if you want it to work again.

If it is cold out, energize the rear defrost and check to see if the entire grid works. This might be hard to inspect for.

If the car has the hot weather package, check the rear sunshade, make sure it goes up/down with the switch on the dash. Manually raise and lower the rear window sunshades.

Energize all four heated seats by selecting them to “6”, wait four or five minutes and check they are heated. NOTE: somebody must be sitting in the seat for it to turn on.

Check the adjustable steering column, the switch is on the left side of the steering column. Does it fully extend and retract?

Open and close the glove box, does it open easily? Another problem with the A8.

Inspect the aluminum shifting plate, is it scratched? If so, you might want to replace it if you buy the car, around $50.

Check to see if the car has xenon headlights (you want these!). Open the hood, look at the headlight assemblies, if they have large metal boxes on them with a lightning bolt on them, they are xenons. If they have plastic covers on the back of the headlight assemblies only, they do not have xenons.

 

Backside of headlight assembly for the 1998 and 1999 US spec model years (as seen from engine compartment). If it doesn't have this electrical box, it doesn't have stock xenons.

Fault Codes
If possible, check for any stored fault codes. This can be done at an Audi dealer or any independent that has a VAG 1552 or ross-tech software. You can also find somebody at Audiworld.com in your area that has the ross-tech software that might help you out.

You should check for codes in the following modules at a minimum: engine, transmission, HVAC system.

Road Test
While taking the car for a road test, pay close attention to how smooth the transmission is. If it has a tiptronic, shift it up and down in tiptronic mode.

Stop the car and with your foot on the brake, open the door, and shift from drive to reverse and back again (without the car moving, keeping your foot on the brake). Listen for clunking and feel for smoothness. If you hear a large clunking, try to determine where it is coming from and have your mechanic inspect further.

Turn the steering from lock to lock in both directions, list for noises and clunks.

Listen to the radio, ensure there is no buzz or whine through the speakers.

Wheels and Tires
Inspect the wheels and tires. Inspect for scuffs and rash on the wheels. Check tire wear pattern on the tires. They should be even. The A8 has an adjustable suspension that allows for proper geometry. If there is uneven tire wear, it either requires an alignment (which only dealers really know how to do correct, about $150) or there is a problem. Most A8's do not have uneven tire wear problems.

Body and Interior
Check the body for collision repair. This can be done by inspecting the following items.

Front Bumper Assembly - The bottom of the front bumper is easy to get caught up on curbs in parking lots. Inspect the bottom of the bumper and engine shield (plastic cover at bottom of engine) for excessive scrapes and damage.

Hood – open and look at hood bolts. If they have the factory paint on them, the hood has most likely never been touched. If it's broken, it's either been readjusted or replaced.
Front Fenders – Look at the fender bolts just under the hood and inspect for factory paint. If they do, the fender probably hasn't been touched. If the paint is broken, the fender has probably be realigned previously due to body damage.

Doors – Open doors and check hing bolts for factory paint.

Rear Fender – Open rear door and run your finger down along the area where the rear fender wraps into the door jamb. If it has been resprayed, this is where it is taped off. Your finger will tell you if there is a ridge there. If it has a ridge, the rear fender is most likely resprayed.

Trunk – Inspect hinge bolts for factory paint.

Inspect all panels for straightness. The A8 is a very straight car from the factory.

Check the interior for leather condition, inspect for rips, cigarette burns, etc.

Other Items
Ensure your A8 has the following with it:

Check the CD changer in the trunk for a six disc cartridge. You'll gasp when you determine how much it costs at the dealer. If you are looking at a 98 and later, it is a Panasonic system, they can be had for about $15. If you are looking at a 97, it's a different system with a much less used component, therefore it's very expensive.

Check the CD changer in the trunk, make sure it has a six disc cartridge in it! If it's a 1997, the dealer gets something like $65 for it!

Check the spare tire. '97-'99 versions came with a donut spare, '00 and later have a full size spare.

Spare keys including valet key.

Floor mats, these have “A8” inscribed on the front ones and attach to the two pegs in the floor. If your car doesn't have them, they are about $125 for a set of four.

Cup holders. There is an insert between the two front seats (can be removed) and one in the rear seat armrest.

Some A8's came with a first aid kit in the rear armrest, it's big and red, you can't miss it

source: http://www.audipages.com/usedA8/usedA8items.html

Range Rover Service and Repair - How to Change Water Pump - Bosch European Redwood City 650-368-3000

 

Need to know more about Range Rover: How To Change Water Pump? Knowing how to change the water pump in a Range Rover can save a considerable amount of time waiting for a mechanic to complete the task for you. The water pump is extremely important to the life of the engine because it circulates water throughout not only the engine, but also, the heater and cooling systems as well. If there is ever a rattling sound under the hood of the car, the culprit is more than likely the water pump. Going long lengths of time without replacing the water pump can do considerable damage to the engine because it will make the engine overheat and eventually stop working all together. To change the water pump on a Range Rover, you will need the following:

Tools:Gasket scrapperWater pumpDrive beltWrench setSocket set with wrench and extensions

Ensure the engine is cold. The first step in learning how to change the water pump on a Range Rover is to make sure the engine is cold. This prevents coolant from flowing through the necessary parts you will work with. Once the engine is cold, then you should initiate coolant draining.  

Remove the drive belt and water. The next step in learning how to change the water pump on a Range Rover is to remove the drive belt and to take the fan shroud off. The drive belt is responsible for moving the parts to parts under the hood. The recommendation here is to replace the belt while it is out.

Drain Radiator. After removing the belt, carefully drain the radiator and remove the other accessories that connect to the water pump.  When learning how to change the water pump on a Range Rover, this step is vital in ensuring the same problem does not happen again. This step also safeguards any old left –over fluids from entering the radiator to pump through the water pump once installation is complete.

Remove the water pump. The next step in learning how to change the water pump on a Range Rover is to unscrew all of the bolts connecting the water pump. This allows the water pump removal to complete quickly.

Use a gasket scrapper to remove the old gasket. Once this is completed, clean the remaining surfaces properly.  

Install the new water pump. Replacing the new water pump is the opposite as removing it as before. Confirm the water pump has a tight seal with the gasket. Next, screw the bolts back on the water pump.

Install the new belt. Now that everything is back where it belongs, ensure proper installation opposite the method it was removed.

Fill the radiator. Refill the radiator with the proper coolant. After filling to the proper levels, restart the engine and monitor the coolant levels. Turn the engine off after ten minutes and monitor the coolant levels as the engine cools and make repairs as necessary.

source: http://www.mademan.com/mm/range-rover-how-change-water-pump.html

by CK Carter

www.boscheruopean.com

 

Audi Cooling System Repair Redwood City - Cooling System Repairs - Bosch European Redwood City - 650) 368-3000

Cooling systems can be your best friend when operating efficiently. Cooling system repairs . . . your worst enemy if you don't understand how your cooling system works.

Your cooling system performs a critical function. Simply put, it maintains proper engine temperature by circulating coolant through the engine to pick up heat and passing it through a radiator to cool it with air. The coolant passes through a thermostat valve to control flow and possibly over a temperature sensor which controls external air cooling fans.

Cooling systems consist of three main parts:

Cooling System Part #1: Pumping

Your cooling system's pumping function is handled by its water pump, which keeps the coolant mixture moving.

The main water pump is gear- or belt-driven but, in many cars, a secondary electric water pump is used for improved flow and cooling.

Critical to the pump's operation is the drive belt that turns it. On most newer cars this is the engine's timing belt. On older cars, the pump and belt are external and run off the main crankshaft pulley with a "V" or flat belt.

Maintenance of cooling system pumping is limited to scheduled coolant replacement and drive-belt replacement and tension adjustment (external type). Timing-belt-driven pumps should always be replaced at the same time as the timing belt and tensioner.

Cooling System Part #2: Piping

Your cooling system's piping consists of all hoses, any control valves, the heater core, the radiator and the expansion tank. Because of the materials used and the constant contact with coolant, all parts in this system deteriorate more from time than use.

Maintenance of cooling system piping consists of scheduled coolant replacement, replacement of all hoses on a regular basis and replacement of any plugged or leaking parts.

All hoses should be checked at least twice a year for abrasions, cracks, flexibility and evidence of leakage. Whenever the coolant is drained for replacement or during engine repairs, any suspect hoses should be replaced. All hoses should be replaced at least every few years.

Radiators, expansion tanks, heater cores and control valves are normally only replaced due to leakage or plugging. The condition of these parts should be assessed by a professional since proper functioning is critical to many other systems within your car.

Cooling System Part #3: Temperature Control

Your cooling system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors, thermostat, radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s) and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either through cooling or by sending control signals to your car's electronic systems.

The thermostat is a spring-loaded valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common first sign of a sticking thermostat. However, many other conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to eliminate each possibility.

The radiator or expansion tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for short-term emergencies!

A belt-driven fan blade for pulling air through the radiator is usually on the water pump pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and "free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or reduced gas mileage).

An electric fan can be either by itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the radiator or upper radiator hose or on the thermostat or water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary fan switch".

Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3) lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control). Your car may have other sensors as well.

Temperature control is critical to both performance and emission control. Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor signals.

Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain". Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally (engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving. Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or mileage limits helps as well.

A Few Important Things to Remember

Heed these cooling system maintenance tips and you're well on your way to ensuring your cooling system won't let you down:

Tip #1: Keep your engine and engine compartment, as well as your radiator fins and grill, as clean as possible. A clean engine runs much cooler - and it's much easier to work on.

Tip #2: Replace coolant at or before factory recommended intervals with the proper type, mixture and volume of coolant. Always allow the coolant system to rid itself of air before installing the radiator cap.

Tip #3: Replace all cooling system hoses - upper and lower radiator hoses, bypass hoses, heater hoses, manifold coolant hoses and any other hoses on your vehicle - whenever you even suspect there may be a problem. All hoses should be replaced at least every two years.

Tip #4: Replace the thermostat with the original temperature setting equivalent. The electronics in your vehicle may use that setting for other controls. Do not substitute under any circumstances.

Tip #5: Replace the radiator/expansion tank cap with the original pressure setting and OE-type equivalent. Some aftermarket substitutions do not seal and hold pressure properly on foreign-manufactured cars. Again, don't substitute.

Tip #6: Adjust or replace the water pump drive belt (external) at recommended intervals or more frequently, if required. Check belts whenever you're working on any coolant system components.

Tip #7: Replace your water pump with an OEM/OES pump at the first signs of trouble or when your timing belt and tensioner are replaced. Watch for signs of overheating - you don't want to break down in the hot sun when your water pump fails.

Tip #8: Replace the fan clutch and/or fan blade as needed (if applicable). Your car's temperature gauge is often your best guide as to when your fan clutch needs attention.

Tip #9: Replace temperature sensors as required by diagnosis. Leave troubleshooting of your sensors to experts who have the proper equipment and diagrams.

Tip #10: Keep your entire vehicle properly maintained because of the effect timing, idle speed, exhaust and other systems have on your engine's temperature. Your car's cooling system is designed to function with all other systems operating properly. It cannot make up for a poorly operating or overheating engine condition.

source: http://www.autohausaz.com/html/cooling_systems.html

 

http://www.boscheuropean.com

 

 

Mercedes Brake Repair Redwood City - Brake Repairs Needed? Don't Take Chances With Your Brakes - Repair Them Now! - Bosch European Redwood City 650-368-3000

  

Brake repairs - critical? Of course! Your brakes keep your family safe. Brake repairs and parts for imports - expensive? You bet! Brake rotors for import cars, unlike domestics, are built with minimal thicknesses to save weight - meaning they can't be "turned"; they must be replaced.

Brake rotors for imports are also more sensitive to warping from heat, and overheated brakes are the second most common cause of failure (first is wear-and-tear).

Save money on brake repairs and parts with these tips:

Use Your Eyes & Ears to Inspect Your Brakes

Visually inspect your brakes' condition at least every six months. Here are some things to look for:

Brake Rotors (discs) should be inspected all the way around the surface and on both sides for any concentric scoring (grooves) or obvious defects. If defects are found, replace your rotors immediately. Any rotor discoloration may be a sign of overheating and an inspection by a brake repair professional is needed.

Brake Pads will normally match rotor scoring but should also be inspected for uneven wear, breakage or cracking on the friction surface. Again, if defects are found, replace the pads immediately. Many cars also have brake pad sensors to warn of pad wear. If your car uses sensors, replace these at the same time as your pads.

Brake Drums (if equipped) should also be inspected on a regular basis. Check for the same types of flaws as noted above. The drums should not have excessive grooves or have a deep "trough" dug into them where the shoes ride.

Brake Shoes (if equipped) should be worn evenly and have no rivets protruding to the friction surface.

Additional Troubleshooting: When inspecting brakes, check calipers, wheel cylinders, hoses and fittings for any hydraulic fluid leakage.

Inspect the master cylinder, reservoir and proportioning valve assemblies as well. Replace or rebuild as required.

A "spongy" brake pedal or one that's gotten lower underfoot also needs looking into. It could be caused by sticking calipers, worn pads, low fluid or hydraulic system problems.

If you can't "pump them up", then you definitely have hydraulic problems that need work. If you always have to pump them up, at the very least your hydraulic fluid needs replacement.

To check brakes by sound, know how your brakes should sound and listen for out-of-the-ordinary noises.

Most cars have a slight brushing sound from the pads lightly touching the rotors. This is perfectly normal. Sounds to beware of include:

Squeaking may be caused by dust or dirt on the brakes, loose pads vibrating when applied or worn pads.

Rhythmic noise might mean you have a warped rotor. Instead of a solid squeaking noise, it pulsates. In extreme cases, the brake pedal will also pulsate underfoot.

Constant brake noise is never a good sound and any grinding noise spells real trouble!

Most importantly: As soon as any problem is noticed, get it repaired immediately. Delaying brake repairs is extremely dangerous.

Overstressed rotors and drums can break. Brakes may be too worn or damaged to stop your car in an emergency.

Even if you manage to avoid physical harm, the longer you delay fixing brake problems, the more you increase the cost of doing so.

Badly worn, warped or overheated rotors can damage wheel bearings and the complete wheel hub assembly. These parts often cost as much or more than the brakes themselves.

Even if you like doing your own work, every few years your brakes should be examined by a professional. Checking brakes for "run-out", warping, wheel bearing play, proper proportioning balance, among others, are normally more involved than can be accomplished in your garage. This inspection can also uncover underlying problems that could eventually become costly or dangerous.

Important Things to Remember

Heed these tips and you're on your way to ensuring your brakes won't fail:

Tip #1: Keep the hydraulic reservoir at the proper level with the fluid type recommended by the car manufacturer. Never substitute or mix types of fluid. Remember also that hydraulic fluid absorbs water. Never use old hydraulic fluid - always use a fresh container.

Tip #2: Keep brakes clean by washing them off at the same time as your car. This keeps squeaky dust and dirt off the pads and makes brakes easier to inspect and work on.

Tip #3: Never spray, touch or drip any oil or lubricants on the brake friction surfaces. If this occurs, spray immediately with brake cleaner to remove completely.

Tip #4: There are no shortcuts or quick fixes to brake problems. They either function properly or they don't. Know your brake system - how it should work, feel and sound - before it acts up so you'll know when something's wrong.

Tip #5: Most imports don't have serviceable rotors. They must be replaced at the same time as the pads. The rotors cannot be "turned" to remove imperfections. There isn't sufficient metal thickness to safely accomplish this.

Tip #6: Keep a repair log with receipts when any service is performed on your car. It helps when you need to check if your warranty is still in effect. More importantly, it's a great gauge of performance and an indicator of other problems.

Tip #7: Whenever the pads are replaced, the hydraulic system must be bled to remove any air bubbles. Most specialists recommend changing the fluid with every pad replacement. If you're unsure of the proper technique for bleeding the hydraulic system, don't perform the job yourself. Seek help from a professional. ABS equipped cars should be bled only by professionals.

Tip #8: Most noises are usually related to your pads. However, whenever replacing pads, you should also replace the sensors and seriously consider replacing the rotors at the same time.

Tip #9: After installing new pads, remember to "set" them properly. This conditions them for maximum performance and prevents premature failure. Instructions for setting pads is usually provided in the package with your new pads.

source: http://www.autohausaz.com/html/brakes.html

http://www.boscheuropean.com

BMW Service and Repair Redwood City - Buying Guide for BMW M5 - Bosch European Redwood City - 650-368-3000

 

Among the glitz and glamour of the 1984 Amsterdam motor show stood a new version of BMW’s recently-launched 5 Series saloon. It was barely indistinguishable from lesser models, but its impact on the performance car world can’t be overstated.   That was the very first BMW M5 – a model which through each of its five distinct generations has consistently redefined driver involvement, performance and comfort. Every generation follows a pure bloodline. They all have a powerful engine mounted up front, rear wheel drive, understated styling which belies the potent performance and the ability to travel hundreds of miles in comfort. We’ve just driven the all-new M5, and it’s a stormer. Road tester Andy Goodwin proclaimed it  the best yet, with more power, efficiency and comfort than ever.    BMW M5 – E60 (2004-2009)     The previous M5 was packed full of technology designed to make the car as fast as possible. It was offered with a V10 engine mated to an automatic gearbox, each with settings to make  the performance more ferocious. Running costs are gargantuan. Official fuel consumption figures suggest around 20mpg is possible  during every day driving, but around 15mpg (on the most expensive brands of super unleaded)  is more likely and CO2 emissions of 357g/km will hurt the wallet too. Consumables are costly; the clutch, tires and brakes will need frequent replacements if the car  is driven enthusiastically. A full service history, preferably from a main dealer or recognized specialist, is a must. Key checks: • The M5 uses a valve timing system called VANOS which often causes problems – a diesel-like engine sound suggests the unit will need replacing at a cost of several thousand pounds • Steer clear of any cars with their warning lights illuminated, faults are often triggered by faulty  sensors and can be expensive to fix • Make sure there’s no vibration or unusual noises under braking BMW M5 – E39 (1998-2003)     BMW needed to raise its game in the late 1990s: the Mercedes E 55 and Jaguar XJR were offering some stiff opposition. The resulting M5 was stunning, and considered by many to be the best all-round M5. The E39 was much more straightforward than the E60, with a manual gearbox, and a basic, but hugely powerful 5-litre V8 engine. It could reach 62 mph in less than five seconds, and top speed  was rated at 155mph. That’s a lot of car for the money, especially considering that’s the price of a replacement engine. Key checks: • Prices have fallen to a point where owners may neglect regular servicing – a full history is very  important • Worn suspension, steering rods or worn tires can cause vibration through the steering, so check all three • Check for rust above the headlights under the bonnet, around the petrol cap, between the boot  lid and the rear bumper and on the boot lid itself BMW M5 – E34 (1988-1995)     The most understated of all the M5s has begun to increase in value, so collectors looking to speculate on an appreciating model could do a lot worse than buying a good one and putting it into storage. It was originally offered with a 3.6-litre, 311bhp engine but in 1991 it grew to 3.8-litres packing 335bhp. The later 3.8 models are more expensive. Models with the more focused Nurburgring handling pack are particularly sought after. The E34 was the first M5 available as an estate, although it was never officially sold in the UK. Saloons are getting rare too, and many left hand drive models have been imported from the continent. Rust is   the main enemy of the E34 due to its age, but the engine and gearbox is generally pretty robust. Key checks: • Rust and crash damage checks should be at the top of your list • Adjustable EDC suspension should be good for about 80,000 miles • Check all the electrics in the cabin. Despite BMW’s reputation for toughness, dry solder joints can cause electric seats and windows to fail BMW M5 – E28 (1985-1987) The E28 was genesis of all of today’s super saloons, launching a year before the Lancia Thema 8.32 and AMG Hammer. The hand-built car used the 3.4-litre engine from the M1 supercar, which  was co-developed by Lamborghini, and other major components from the hottest 6-Series of the time, the M635CSI. That added up to performance that wouldn’t shame a performance car today: 0-62mph was dispatched in 6.2 seconds and flat out, it would hit 153mph. Key checks: • Rust is the main enemy of the E28 – check everywhere for it, particularly underneath and around the engine bay • Check the service history for recent brake and exhaust replacement – they’re costly and need frequent replacement • Make sure it’s a genuine M5 – there are plenty of M535i models which have been badged to look like an M  source: http://www.autotrader.co.uk/articles/2011/11/cars/bmw/m5/bmw-m5-the-ultimate-buying-guide   http://www.boscheuropean.com

BMW Service and Repair Redwood City 650-368-3000 - Driving the BMW M1 - Bosch European Redwood City

Driving the BMW M1

BMW M1 Picture
Lyndon McNeil

There's a BMW M1 waiting for me when I get home. Bathed in the early evening light, this wedge of Giugiaro-styled supercar on extraordinary Campagnolo wheels is such an improbable sight in my driveway that I quickly take a picture and announce its presence on Twitter.

Within seconds, my phone is besieged by text messages, each ping from someone who has seen the shot and just wants to talk about the BMW M1. It's the best and most enthusiastic reaction to any car I've driven all year. But why?

In the Beginning
In its day, the M1 was a troubled supercar. Not an XJ220 basket case I'll grant, but painfully conceived and slowly delivered. The midengine Bimmer was the brainchild of BMW Motorsport boss Jochen Neerpasch in the mid-1970s, and its true purpose was to teach Porsche some manners in Group 5 racing.

In 1977, though, the Fédération Internationale du Sport Automobile (FISA) changed the rules, and BMW would not be allowed to run a Group 5-spec M1 racecar until it built 400 road-going cars for homologation.

A few of these cars would be built to Group 4 racing regulations and eventually compete in a one-make, IROC-style race series called Procar. These cars would have a normally aspirated, inline six-cylinder developed from the engine used in the famed 3.0 CSL coupe and producing around 470 horsepower, whereas the eventual full-on Group 5 racecar would use twin turbochargers and make over 800 hp.

Of course, to hit that 400-unit threshold, BMW would also need to build a couple hundred more M1s detuned for street use to sell to private customers. That's the origin of the car in my driveway.

How They Made It
It didn't take BMW long to determine that it had neither the expertise nor the space to build a proper midengine, rear-drive supercar. So where better to turn for help than Italy?

Giugiaro's ItalDesign would style it. Trasformazione Italiane Resine would make its fiberglass body panels, Marchesi of Modena its tube frame. And the whole lot would be turned over to none other than Lamborghini, which would put it all together alongside the Countach, as well as do the testing and development work. Overall specification aside, BMW's contribution would be the twin-cam, 24-valve version of its M88 inline six-cylinder engine displacing 3,453cc and delivering 277 hp at 6,500 rpm in its civilian state of tune.

Then, Lamborghini got itself into financial strife, and BMW lost confidence and pulled the plug. But rather than killing the M1 outright, the automaker handed over the assembly to Baur, a coachbuilder in Stuttgart that had built BMW prototypes in the past, and took on the development work itself. Production finally started, late, in 1978.

How It Ended
After three years, with only a measly 453 units to show for its efforts, BMW canned the M1. It was never officially exported to the United States — so even though it was priced at 100,000 deutschmarks in 1978 (less than $50,000 at the time), anyone who got their hands on a gray-market import in America was looking at a six-figure car.

Although the street cars were rare and coveted, the BMW M1 racecars didn't exactly set the world on fire. Neerpasch had hoped the Procar series would pump up publicity for the M1 project, as the Group 4-spec cars were driven at support races in European rounds of the Formula 1 championship by none other than F1 drivers themselves. But the series only ran for two seasons, in 1979 and '80, with Niki Lauda winning the title the first year, and Nelson Piquet in the second. The Procar M1s had their share of engine problems, and few of the F1 drivers took them seriously, often treating them like glorified bumper cars — a distraction from what they were really trying to achieve.

As for the Group 5 M1s, some were built by March Engineering and raced in 1981 but not by the BMW factory team, which had lost heart and interest in the project. Lacking BMW's development resources, the March M1 was underpowered for its class and proved less than a match for the Porsche 935. It claimed the Nürburgring 1,000km as its only major motorsport victory in the hands of Piquet and Hans-Joachim Stuck.

In 1982 the rules of sports car racing were rewritten again, and the short-lived era of the M1, which had promised so much but delivered so little, was over.

Forget History. We're Taking the Wheel
Today the BMW M1 is just a car, and its complicated past is not my concern. What matters now is that it's early morning, and the M1 and I are due for a run through the mountains.

I lean in, twist the key and hear it fire at once as the Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection metes out the right ratio of fuel to air to each of six throttles for this cold morning. Were this a late-'70s Ferrari Berlinetta Boxer or Countach you'd still be juggling throttles and chokes as you tried, manually, to brew a blend acceptable to their monstrous battalions of carburetors.

From the driver seat, you discover an interior BMW never would have sanctioned in its conventional cars. The packaging constraints forced by a short, 101-inch wheelbase and an engine mounted longitudinally in the middle of the car crowd the driver into the M1's nose. Headroom is very restricted and legroom not much better. The pedals are displaced so far to the center of the car that the clutch pedal is actually to the right of the steering column. It sounds terrible, but all midengine cars of the era were like this — Ferrari and Lambo drivers didn't have it any better.

Similarly, the M1's drab black cockpit looks little better than a kit car through our 21st-century lenses, but such was the standard for late-'70s supercars. A Ferrari interior might have distracted you with dramatic details like an open-gate shifter, but nobody worried about having a soft-touch dash back then.

Shockingly Easy To Drive
Yet this 34-year-old supercar is as easy to get in and operate as a new BMW 328i. If you know how to drive, you can drive an M1.

Mind you, the ZF five-speed manual gearbox has a dogleg 1st gear, so 1st, 3rd and 5th are all in the lower plane. Only reverse gear proves difficult to engage in my car. And I'm not even out of the driveway before I appreciate the M1's visibility — the sight lines are as good as any midengine car I can recall.

On the road, I can't shake the feeling that the BMW M1 is too easy to drive. In spite of its exotic specification, it's quiet, with a bizarrely compliant ride, and it ambles along in a high gear at next to no revs without protest. Were its interior not so useless, you'd be convinced you were in a low-slung 7 Series.

It's 30 Years Young
But once some temperature has been registered in the oil (all M1s were dry-sumped, by the way, so the inline-6 engine could be mounted low and upright in the chassis), I give the M1 more throttle and its personality starts to change.

It's no Jekyll-and-Hyde transformation, but when you load up the car's double-wishbone suspension and run the inline-6 at higher rpm, you won't miss the signs. The engine note, smooth but indistinct so far, becomes clear and hard. Unpolluted by power assist, the precise rack-and-pinion steering slowly fills with life. A car that had felt slack now feels poised, ready for action. The only thing to do is go faster.

This is a leap of faith because you're asking a car that's over 30 years old to perform as if it were new — something I might ask of a Porsche 911 from this era, but certainly not a brutish Countach or Ferrari Boxer. Yet, the midengine M1 feels light and trustworthy, and it likes to change direction.

A Multidimensional Supercar
By modern standards, it's not superbly quick. When new, the inline-6 was only rated at 243 pound-feet of torque at 5,000 rpm. Figure on getting to 60 mph in 5.5 seconds, with an aerodynamically restricted top speed of just 161 mph (the Procar M1 would top 190). It's still fast enough to earn your undivided attention, though, not least because of the howl of the race-bred motor.

Back in the '70s, some critics panned this inline-6 because it shared its basic architecture with the engines in BMW sedans and had half as many cylinders as the Italian supercars. But when you actually drive an M1, you realize this engine is pure class, piling on the power in layers from idle to almost 7,000 rpm.

But this isn't why I love the BMW M1. Nor is it the slow but precise gearbox or the unexpectedly powerful brakes. It's the way the car feels in your hands. Despite being sired in Germany and Italy to more parents than a Labradoodle, the M1 behaves like the purest thoroughbred.

Grip levels are not massive. The rear tires measure just 225/50R16 (with skinnier 205/55R16s up front) and look as if they belong on a Mazda 3 or something, but they're perfectly in keeping with the car's less-is-more character. The sensation when you feel the M1 flow into gorgeous neutrality would feel entirely alien in a heavier, modern supercar with huge tires, adaptive suspension and a full complement of electronic safety aids.

Driving an M1 with the wheel constantly squirming in your hands, trimming the car's attitude to an approaching corner with tiny movements of your foot soon becomes a natural state. In this regard, the BMW M1 is closer to a Caterham than a modern supercar. And it is breathtaking, sublime fun.

The Spark Behind the M Division
Only once you've tasted this side of the BMW M1 does everything else fall into place. What makes this car so astonishingly good, even by 2012 standards, is that it can be a focused driver's car in one moment and, the very next, turn back into a midengine, two-seat luxury car. Plus, the racecar-spec fuel tank is so big (nearly 31 gallons), I could literally drive from England to the South of France between fills.

"It's a normal car," Neerpasch once told a reporter. "It's just normal at a higher speed than other cars."

And although it was a failure as a commercial project, the BMW M1 is a pearl, technically the best supercar of its era if not the fastest or most beautiful. It also gave rise to BMW's Motorsport division, which has since rolled out some pretty memorable M3s and M5s. But the company has never dreamed as big since the M1.

Now rumors are swirling that BMW will resurrect this enigmatic nameplate. And with Audi and Mercedes-Benz both in the two-seat supercar game and Porsche not far behind, you have to think the executives in Munich are at least talking about building another M1.

Portions of this content have appeared in foreign print media and are reproduced with permission.

source: http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/features/driving-the-bmw-m1.html
by Andrew Frankel

 

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